[agoodwalkspoiled]

It will make your life easier if you do not use the 0.355" ferrules. The std. 0.370" ferrule will most likely be easier to install and will guarantee that a ferrule installer tool will not be necessary. The reason is the tip of the tapered shaft will slide in with ease and the shaft widens as the ferrule slides up. Whats really important is the O.D. of the ferrule will need to be larger than the diameter of the hosel. The 0.370" will work, believe me, I don't even carry the 0.355" ferrules anymore.

I'm not sure of the advantage of installing grips first, other than it makes you dry fit the shafts first which is always a good idea. Its not necessary to precut the shafts and installing the grips first may leave you high and dry if the shaft moves during the process. Cutting the shaft and gripping after install ensures that the grips will be straight. Of course, I play all my grips with graphics down, so this becomes a non-issue.


As far as the ferrule install goes, if you insist on using 0.355" ferrules, you will most likely would want to ream them out first with a sanding sleeve hooked to a mandrel for your drill. If you are still having trouble sliding them on the shaft, a little heat works wonders. Just zap them with a heat gun or soak them in hot water just prior to install and they will expand easier. I put a little dab of epoxy inside them with a tooth pick... this helps with ferrule creep and provides a lubricant to help get the ferrule up on the shaft. Next slide the ferrule just past the tip and then push the ferrule up using the clubhead. This will ensure that the ferrule will be at the correct height. Now put a thin coat of epoxy in the hosel and apply some to the shaft tip. Slowly turn the shaft as you insert it.