Turning ferrules

[mr_sooty]

What's the best method for turning ferrules and getting a proffesional finish? I can turn ferrules using a drill, fine grit sandpaper, and a cloth with acetone, but the finish isn't perfect, and I'm going to be doing this in high volume, so I need a quicker method.

I hear you can do it with a cloth belt sander. Do you still need acetone? Does the cloth belt get it to the right size as well as polish it up? Do you assemble the club first and then turn the whole hosel assembly on the belt?

Details and advice most appreciated, thanks.

[tmtp]

I just use acetone and get a very professional finish on them. I do it when the epoxy has dried and it will match it to the hosel very well.

[EddieC]

Sooty, I just did a set with the method you described. I couldn't figure out a faster way, I used some 80 grit followed by some 120 grit followed by the acetone. I did figure out that once you've got the ferrul the size you want it, to soak the thing with acetone and then let it dry without touching to get it really shiney.

[JPsuff]

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I do all my ferrules by hand. I have the cloth belts and the little benchtop machine, but it has burned more than a few ferrules. I know there's a "touch" to it, but I can't be bothered trying to figure that out.

I just set up the club in a vise and I tear off about a 1/2-inch wide piece of emery cloth and I just sand away. I use the same motion that a shoe-shine guy would use to buff shoes. If I have to take a lot of material down, I use a medium grit paper, but usually I use a well-used piece of fine emery to get everything smooth.

When I'm finished with that, I take some "0000" steel wool and get everything mirror smooth. Then a quick wipe with acetone and Voila! A perfect ferrule!

I don't know that this would work for volume jobs, but I have it down to about a minute or so per club and like I say, it comes out perfect.



-JP

[mr_sooty]

Originally Posted by JPsuff

.


I do all my ferrules by hand. I have the cloth belts and the little benchtop machine, but it has burned more than a few ferrules. I know there's a "touch" to it, but I can't be bothered trying to figure that out.

I just set up the club in a vise and I tear off about a 1/2-inch wide piece of emery cloth and I just sand away. I use the same motion that a shoe-shine guy would use to buff shoes. If I have to take a lot of material down, I use a medium grit paper, but usually I use a well-used piece of fine emery to get everything smooth.

When I'm finished with that, I take some "0000" steel wool and get everything mirror smooth. Then a quick wipe with acetone and Voila! A perfect ferrule!

I don't know that this would work for volume jobs, but I have it down to about a minute or so per club and like I say, it comes out perfect.



-JP

But if you're putting the whole club in a vice and sanding, aren't you going to scratch the hosel?

[JPsuff]

Originally Posted by mr_sooty

But if you're putting the whole club in a vice and sanding, aren't you going to scratch the hosel?

No. I use a rubber vise clamp which is designed to hold the shaft while in the vise.



-JP

[mr_sooty]

So you cover the hosel with the clamp? I have one of those clamps, so I might give your method a try.

[agoodwalkspoiled]

If you are planning on doing high or low volume, a belt sander is without question the fastest, easiest, and best way to turn ferrules. Cloth belts are fine, but I'll let you in on a little clubmaker secret. Order the trizact belt from golfsmith. ONe belt can prep graphite shafts, prep steel shafts, and turn ferrules. It has a little more grit than a linen belt and they last forever. Linen belts are cheap.. they shred and only last a few uses.

After you turn the ferrule with a belt sander, or sand paper for that matter, go over it one time with a real fine grit sand paper and then a quick turn with ultra fine steel wool. And then do a couple of quick strokes with acetone a piece of paper towel in a vertical motion. VOILA! A professionally finished ferrule.

If you are not used to using a belt sander, I suggest practicing first on some old clubs if you decide to go this route. You will quickly learn the most efficient and safest way to manipulate the club during sanding.