What do I need to install new ferrules.

[ringin]

I'm going to install some new TT shafts in my Nike irons, which isn't a problem, but I've never done ferrules. What exactly will I need to do them and have them come out nice? The shafts are .355. Sorry for all the club making questions lately.

[EddieC]

If the ferruls are perfect fits for the heads then all you need is to put a little epoxy on the shaft, slide the ferrul on and then I'd use the head to press it into place. If the ferruls are a bit big (mushroom over the top of the hosel)....drop down and take a look at Mr. Sooty's thread about turning ferruls. It's not really hard, but can be time consuming and you'll for sure need some acetone, at least I did when I did my first ferrul turning two weeks ago.

[JPsuff]

.


First of all, a .355 tip means it's a tapered shaft so do yourself a favor and get a set of tapered iron ferrules. They're made a bit smaller than standard .370 ferrules and will fit better. Next, get yourself one of these tools:




When you're ready to shaft the club, put a dab of epoxy on the shaft tip like normal, place the ferrule on the shaft and set it with this tool. You do that by placing the butt end of the shaft on the ground and pushing the ferrule on with the tool. This will set the ferrule about an inch or so down the shaft. Then, set the ferrule to its final position with the clubhead.
Using this tool is far easier than using the clubhead because clubheads can be somewhat awkward to grasp for purposes of setting ferrules. Plus, if you have any epoxy on your fingers or hand, you'll just get the tool dirty rather than the clubhead.

After the ferrule is placed, then just add epoxy to the shaft tip and hosel as you normally would and install the shaft. Wipe away the excess with an acetone soaked paper towel and that's it. Afterwards, it's just a case of dressing the ferrule.

Tip:

If you're re-shafting a whole set of clubs, measure and cut each shaft and install the grip prior to assembly (just keep them in proper order, I use masking tape and write each shaft's clubhead on it). Then, as you assemble the club you can install your ferrule, install the shaft and also align the grip with the clubhead all in one step. When the epoxy sets, unless the ferrules need to be dressed, the club is ready for play.


-JP

[ringin]

Originally Posted by JPsuff

.


First of all, a .355 tip means it's a tapered shaft so do yourself a favor and get a set of tapered iron ferrules. They're made a bit smaller than standard .370 ferrules and will fit better. Next, get yourself one of these tools:




When you're ready to shaft the club, put a dab of epoxy on the shaft tip like normal, place the ferrule on the shaft and set it with this tool. You do that by placing the butt end of the shaft on the ground and pushing the ferrule on with the tool. This will set the ferrule about an inch or so down the shaft. Then, set the ferrule to its final position with the clubhead.
Using this tool is far easier than using the clubhead because clubheads can be somewhat awkward to grasp for purposes of setting ferrules. Plus, if you have any epoxy on your fingers or hand, you'll just get the tool dirty rather than the clubhead.

After the ferrule is placed, then just add epoxy to the shaft tip and hosel as you normally would and install the shaft. Wipe away the excess with an acetone soaked paper towel and that's it. Afterwards, it's just a case of dressing the ferrule.

Tip:

If you're re-shafting a whole set of clubs, measure and cut each shaft and install the grip prior to assembly (just keep them in proper order, I use masking tape and write each shaft's clubhead on it). Then, as you assemble the club you can install your ferrule, install the shaft and also align the grip with the clubhead all in one step. When the epoxy sets, unless the ferrules need to be dressed, the club is ready for play.


-JP

Thanks JP...good info. I may PM you if I have any other questions. Much appreciated.

[ringin]

I really don't want to buy from Golfsmith, but these are the only tapered ferrules I see on their website..are they any good, or do you have a better suggestion. Thanks.

http://www.golfsmith.com/products/306TI

EDIT: Actually I may go with the 75TI from Golfworks.

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_65TIS

[agoodwalkspoiled]

It will make your life easier if you do not use the 0.355" ferrules. The std. 0.370" ferrule will most likely be easier to install and will guarantee that a ferrule installer tool will not be necessary. The reason is the tip of the tapered shaft will slide in with ease and the shaft widens as the ferrule slides up. Whats really important is the O.D. of the ferrule will need to be larger than the diameter of the hosel. The 0.370" will work, believe me, I don't even carry the 0.355" ferrules anymore.

I'm not sure of the advantage of installing grips first, other than it makes you dry fit the shafts first which is always a good idea. Its not necessary to precut the shafts and installing the grips first may leave you high and dry if the shaft moves during the process. Cutting the shaft and gripping after install ensures that the grips will be straight. Of course, I play all my grips with graphics down, so this becomes a non-issue.


As far as the ferrule install goes, if you insist on using 0.355" ferrules, you will most likely would want to ream them out first with a sanding sleeve hooked to a mandrel for your drill. If you are still having trouble sliding them on the shaft, a little heat works wonders. Just zap them with a heat gun or soak them in hot water just prior to install and they will expand easier. I put a little dab of epoxy inside them with a tooth pick... this helps with ferrule creep and provides a lubricant to help get the ferrule up on the shaft. Next slide the ferrule just past the tip and then push the ferrule up using the clubhead. This will ensure that the ferrule will be at the correct height. Now put a thin coat of epoxy in the hosel and apply some to the shaft tip. Slowly turn the shaft as you insert it.

[ringin]

^^^ Thanks. Very good information. The shafts I have now are the correct length, so I think I will tag and remove the old shaft and measure off of them for the new shafts. I would rather set my grips to the club head than the other way around, so I'll probably trim the shaft and grip last.

[JPsuff]

.



To each his own, but the installer tool has many advantages over using the clubhead - particularly for someone who has never installed ferrules. I remember the first time I put a ferrule on using the clubhead, I nearly broke a few knuckles when the hosel slipped off the ferrule and the shaft went into my hand.

The installer tool sits around the ferrule and a step inside provides the pushing surface. This configuration ensures that the ferrule is held solidly. Also, a "T" handled tool allows one to apply pressure evenly from the heel of one's hand as opposed to mainly thumb pressure when using the clubhead. Once the ferrule is set about an inch down the shaft, the hosel of the clubhead can be used to set the ferrule to its final position safely as the shaft acts as a mandrel to guide the hosel.

Once I used that tool, I have never used anything else.


-JP

[EddieC]

I bought some .355 taper tip ferruls from Christian and Solid Rock (Sponsor here). He has a bunch of them and if your unsure give him a call. I didn't need the ferrul tool either, was no problem sliding them on using the club head to set them in place. My issue was with turning them down because they'd mushroomed a bit over the top of the shaft (guess Mizuno's have thin hosels) but once I figured it out, with Christians help, it was a snap.

[Stiofan]

I use an old piece of grafite shaft (from the handle) which slides over the tip fine and will push the ferrule to the desired spot, which I usually mark first with a piece of masking tape. Tapping softly on the graphite piece I can get the ferrule done in seconds. If I made a lot of clubs I'd get every tool possible, but since I make them only for myself and a few friends I can make du with homemade items like this. It works fine.

[RobinHunter]

Originally Posted by JPsuff

.I remember the first time I put a ferrule on using the clubhead, I nearly broke a few knuckles when the hosel slipped off the ferrule and the shaft went into my hand.

And, I thought I was the only clutz that did that!!

I didn't have the installer tool so I had to improvise. I drilled 2 holes into a piece of 1x4, one with a .370 and the other with a .335 bit, and I use that to install the ferrule. I get the ferrule started on the shaft. With the 1x4 on my bench, I set the shaft and ferrule on the wood at the appropriate hole, then I push down. The ferrule stays put while the shaft slides down about 3/4". I then use the clubhead to drive the ferrule down to its final spot. It's quick, easy, and worked so well I decided to stay with that and not buy the installer.

[pick-it-up]

I've always just used a shaft butt and a tap it w/ a hammer.

[cosine]

Most ferrules I just push on by hand, and then use the clubhead to set the final depth. The secret? Heat up a cup of water in the microwave, take it out, and drop the ferrule in for 10-15 seconds. Pull the ferrule out, dry it off, and most of them slide right on. Use the clubhead to set the final depth, and you're all set. One hint: Use the clubhead to set the final depth right away, because when some of them cool off they no longer slide up and down the shaft to the proper position very easily.

[ringin]

Thanks to all for the ferrule info. They were a perfect fit. I didn't have to force a single one on and they look great now. I actually just got them started by hand, and used the head to push them up. Nice snug fit. Once they were on, I had to sand a little to get them flush, but I quickly figured out how to get a nice finish, without using acetone. I used a 200 grit, 100 grit, 000 Steel wool, and a 4000 grit aluminum oxide sand paper. Came out shiny as heck. Thanks again.

[Wildbore]

I found the Mr. T Ferrule installer quite useless. I bought one when I started with clubmaking and have built dozens of clubs and still haven't touched it.